Estói

Estói lies on a hillside north of Faro between Moncarapacho and Santa Barbara de Nexe.

The centre of this quiet town is dominated by the church of São Martinho (dating from the seventeenth century) which has a fine, though very scruffy (2003), facade (nineteenth century) with three naves, a tower and excellent views south towards the coast. If you walk up the small hill alongside the church you will pass some toilets and then reach a shady square with seats for the weary.

The main attraction of Estói however is the magnificent palace (Palácio de Estói). The majority of which was built in the eighteenth century but has some later additions. Unfortunately, the palace is in a state of disrepair and not open to the public, but it is still well worth a visit just to look at the gardens, statues (including a replica of Canova's "Three Graces" in a grotto near the tiled double staircase) and many colourful tiles (including mosaics from Milreu). Of special interest to UK and European gardeners is the Pyracantha tree (yes, tree not shrub!) near the staircase. Do note that the gardens are closed on Mondays and also that they shut for lunch from 12:30 to 14:00hrs.

Regretfully when revisited in July 2003 there was a notice stating that this was to become the site of a new Pousada (State hotel) and the grounds were shut.

Situated a short distance (1km) from the town centre are the Milreu Roman ruins, consisting of a large temple like building which at one stage was used by Christians as a church and a series of baths (some with what appears to be remains of white Italian marble linings). It is believed that the building was originally used as a weekend retreat in Roman times. There are still some excellent mosaic fragments here but the best have been removed to museums. It is possible to walk all over the ruins and there are signs detailing what each part was used for. The open access to the site (including wheelchair ramps to the major parts) help make this a memorable place to visit and a pleasant change to stuffy UK Roman ruins where everything is generally off limits and one has to keep to walkways.. It very much appears that the site has only been partially excavated as the area is relatively small and the ruins run off under the nearby orange orchard as well as under a more modern and still used church. Perhaps this and the other Roman ruins of the Algarve would be a suitable venue for the UK's Channel4 Time Team programme! Again, the ruins are closed on Mondays and they shut for lunch from 12:30 to 14:00hrs. 

The facilities at the ruins have been greatly increased with the construction of an air-conditioned visitor centre though now (2003) there is also a charge for entry to the ruins. Toilets, cold drink's machines and a small exhibition are situated in the delightfully cool visitor centre and well justify  the entry charge of 1.25Euro per person by themselves. The visitor centre has a small car park though for some reason there are massive security gates at the entrance - perhaps they expect the visitor centre might be stolen?

Also well worth a visit is Estói market which is normally held on the second Sunday of each month. Here you will find a huge variety of goods on sale including fresh fruit and vegetables, clothes, shoes, tools and even horses, chickens and goats! This is a far less touristy market than most others in the Algarve.

Directions

From the motorway (junction 14) head south and almost immediately, when the crash barriers finish, take a left turn. This then merges with a road from the right and then you take the next right into a village. In the centre of the village turn right. The ruins are on the left after maybe 100m just as power lines cross the road and in a cutting. Continue up this road to get to Estói itself.

See also the nearby town of Loulé, 12 km to the West.

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